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new Sewing Tips: Installing a Basic Zipper

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Old 10-15-2011, 03:11 AM
Aaa Aaa is offline
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First of all, I loved hearing about your potty stories that you shared with me here.* I kept laughing and laughing.* I love that we all have so much in common.* So many of you are going through the potty training blues with either your own kids, a grandchild, a niece/nephew, and/or a friend’s child etc.* Hang in there…..and let me know how it goes.* Especially the stories that may not be funny at the moment but you can laugh at later! Ha.

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I know…..zippers can seem scary.*

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Have you been avoiding them?*

And substituting buttons, snaps, hook/eye, or velcro?

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If so, you just need to show those little boogers that you’re the boss.

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Seriously, they’re not terribly hard…….they just take a little practice.

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And they really can be pretty useful.



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You can use the basic zipper for clothing, pillow openings, pouches, totes, etc.



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And besides, a cheery little zipper can always perk up a project.



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Also, if you only have a super long zipper on hand that’s just too long for your project…….don’t run to the store.* Use what you have.



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Want to learn a bit more about* basic zippers?



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First of all, you will mostly likely need a zipper foot to sew in a zipper.* They are narrow in size and have a notch on the left for the needle and a notch on the right.* This is so that the presser foot can butt up right next to the zipper, making a seam really close to that zipper.



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Now, depending on you project, this construction of how you attach your zipper may be a bit different.* But here’s the basic idea.

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Here are the two pieces of fabric that I am wanting to zip together.



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First, I finished off the two edges that I wanted to zip together with a serged seam (zig-zag works too) and then sewed those two sides together (with right sides together), using a 5/8 inch seam allowance……and a long stitch length (basting stitch).

(Use whatever seam allowance you were given or that you allowed yourself if you made your own pattern.)



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Then, turn to the ‘wrong’ side and iron the two edges open flat.



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Now, you will most likely have a starting and stopping point for your zipper on the fabric.* It may be the top edge of the fabric or a 1/2 inch down, etc.* Wherever it is, place the end where it needs to begin and place your zipper face down.* Then line up the center of the zipper teeth along the center of that open seam.* Place some scotch tape along the back of the zipper and as you center your zipper, lay it down and secure with the tape.*

*You can use pins to hold your zipper in place as well.* I just like tape because it’s less bulky.* Give it a try if you never have before.*



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Gradually make your way all the way down the zipper, checking to be sure the zipper it is centered right along the seam…..and continue placing pieces of tape.*



(And for using my technique [in the next few steps] don’t place a piece of tape right where the actual zipper pull is and about 2 inches below that either.* You’ll understand in the steps ahead. )

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Then flip the fabric over and place a pin right above where the bottom of the zipper is.* This will just show you where the end is because you don’t want to sew over the metal (or thick plastic) piece at the end of the zipper.



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I always start at the bottom of the zipper and work my way towards the top.

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So first, position your needle all the way over to the left (so you don’t break your needle) and now you’re ready to begin sewing along the right side of the seam.* Slide your fabric (right side up) underneath the presser foot and find the pin you used to mark the bottom of the zipper.* Now, every zipper teeth width is different……so feel how far out your zipper teeth come and sew just to the right of them, not on them.* Whatever distance away from the teeth you use, just make it consistent as you sew along the zipper.* Back stitch a time or two and then start sewing.



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Keep sewing all the way down the zipper until you are about 2 inches from the end.



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Now, keep your needle down in the fabric and then lift the presser foot and lift up the fabric.



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And un-zip the zipper until it’s just behind the needle and out of the way.* (This is why you didn’t use tape on the back right here where the zipper pull was.) Unzipping will get that chunky zipper pull out of the way while sewing.* It just bugs me when sewing…..but some people just sew around it.* Do what you like best.



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Now, re-align the center seam of the fabric so that it’s slightly more to the left.* Then continue sewing and backstitch at the end.

**I do this to give more fabric to cover the zipper pull after it’s all zipped up.* Again, this is just preference.* If you don’t mind, just keep the seam aligned down the center of the zipper and sew to the end.



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Now, switch your needle alignment all the way to the right.



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Turn your fabric a quarter turn so that you can sew along the bottom of the zipper.* Sew back and forth a few times, to secure the end of the zipper section on the fabric.



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Then turn the fabric again so that you can start sewing along the other side of the zipper.* Sew right along the left side of the zipper, just like you did along the right……making sure you sew the same distance from that center seam.* Stop again, 2 inches from the end, leaving your needle down in the fabric.* Then unpick that center seam until just beyond the back of the zipper foot.



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Unzip the zipper so that it’s out of the way and just behind the zipper foot…….and then move the edge of the fabric just over to the right a bit, to give extra room for the zipper head on this side too.* Continue sewing to the very end and backstitch.



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Now, flip the fabric over and pull up the tape.



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Now unpick that center seam.



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And then pull on the zipper to be sure it works.



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Whew, it does!



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Now, fold under the top edge and sew in place, add a band to cover the top raw edge (like shown above), or follow whatever directions you’re using.



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One last tip:

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Are you working on a project and need an 8 inch zipper……but only have a 22 inch zipper??

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No worries…….just slide that zipper under your regular zipper foot*right at the length that you need the zipper to be and use your widest zig-zag stitch (with your stitch length set to ’0′) and sew several stitches right there at that spot.* This will clamp the zipper shut right at this spot.



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And now you can cut your zipper off, right below those stitches.



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